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Koh Chang —From Busy Bang Bao Pier to White Sand Beach & Buddha View

Early April 2019

Hot and Humid with a little taste of storm (Lightning/Thunder) is today’s reality! But the storm passed quickly and we were off exploring. Today’s plan is to further explore Bang Bao pier (about 1km walk); take a taxi (covered back of a truck with bench seats) to Big C store in White Sand beach area; then embrace the end of our light with a sunset dinner at lovely Buddha View Open restaurant.

Taxi ride north to White Sand Beach

We caught a taxi to White Sand beach to get groceries. It’s a lengthy ride north back towards the ferry terminal which is augmented by the discomfort of being bounced around in the back bench seat of a truck as it swerved around tight hairpin corners barely missing other vehicles and scooters, while breathing in the exhaust fumes right below you! Clearly not my favorite mode of transit!

Price for the taxi ride is negotiated by you and the driver prior to you jumping into the back. Prices varied with different drivers. This section was 150 Baht/person.

Lunch, massages, groceries at Big C

We decided to grab lunch and have a massage prior to getting groceries at Big C. There are many lovely spots to enjoy Thai food off the main roads. Toilets aren’t always available though, so watch for them as you travel. A toilet facility was near to our lunch location. The price was 10 Baht each for a few squares of toilet paper and the use of a public toilet.

There are so many massage locations in Koh Chang and the prices are pretty compatible… but the expertise of the “women” (haven’t seen a male yet) varies. We hit a home run in White Sand beach! All 3 of us had 1 hour massages with oil, then tea. The 3 women were amazing and so strong and effective. The total price was 850 Baht which equates to less than $40 Canadian!!! After getting groceries we took another taxi back to our home base.

Bang Bao pier area

Off we walked past the Wat (mediation center) toward the pier. We’re getting familiar with all the landmarks—scooter rental locations, our favorite fresh fruit stand where the lady will slice up any fruit in front of you, (Mango, limes, papaya, bananas, dragon fruit, coconut, mangosteens, lychee, etc), the only drug mart, massage shops, the laundry shop (40 baht for 1kg of dirty laundry), and the ever popular 7–11 store and taxi base.

As you approach the wooden pier you encounter the Rasta stand, gelato stand, coffee shops, then the souvenirs, colourful clothing, fresh fish and seafood, Thai food, and endless small souvenirs shops!

Bang Bao Pier

Everyone heading for a boat excursion must walk down the lengthy pier to the waiting vessels. The pathway is narrow and packed with endless tiny shops, fresh food, and little cafes on both sides of the path. In addition to locals and tourists walking through this covered path, watch out for the constant stream of scooters, motorcycles, and metal carts filled with wares! (Especially early morning and after 4 pm).

Buddha View restaurant in pm

At the end of the covered section of the pier you will discover open space and a more relaxed setting with a few delightful restaurants. Buddha View is well worth locating and quite delightful! There are a few areas where you can sit on pillows at a low tables and let your legs dangle over the open water.

Back again! Buddha View for dinner!

The Thai food was wonderful and the sunset sublime. This was an awesome way to end another full day at Koh Chang with my 2 favorite guys! 😉

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Koh Chang—Bob Marley, Mornings and Ways to Explore!

April 4th to 10th, 2019

Our week on Koh Chang was apparently a quiet time to visit the island. This was the week prior to Song Kran (Thai New Year) and after Spring Break period for overseas tourists. It was the hot and “dry” season here.

Tranquility Bay Resort—Koh Chang

Bob Marley has a strong presence on this island. Directed at tourists? We didn’t see many locals sporting his colourful red, yellow, and green apparel, hairbag, or dreds. Yet, there were numerous shops sporting his colours and selling souvenirs as well as “Hippy shack” and “Rasta” promotion. In fact, ironically the elaborate Tranquility Bay resort complex was nestled between Rasta colours and lower cost “hippy” huts.

We ate our first dinner at Rastaview located beside our resort sitting on cushions on the floor overlooking the jungle as dogs and cats wandered around and lay beside you or on the tables. Hygiene wasn’t a priority and although the location was unique, and had a definite following, it wasn’t our scene.

RastaView —Koh Chang

Our Airbnb at the Tranquility Bay Resort was large (2 bedrooms 2 bathrooms), self contained, and had a magnificent view from the main area and master bedroom. My son’s cooking skills were revisited after a lengthy hiatus! We enjoyed our breakfasts on the deck listening to the birds, monkeys, and local geckos and lizards.

There were 2 geckos living inside the condo that made chirping sounds periodically. I never saw them, but the guys did on rare occasions. They didn’t bother us and we figured they were consuming unwanted bugs!

Breakfasts with Geckos/lizards

In terms of transportation… Taxis ran constantly and usually had room (truck with open back, covered roof, and bench seats), and rental scooters were available in every beach area and most accommodation locations.

Booking boat tours to nearby islands or to go fishing was also painless. Booking agents were available in all the major beach areas and tours supplied taxis to pick up from your accommodations. Weekends were more popular than weekdays, but we had no trouble accessing availability for tours. Another blog post will follow dedicated to our day snorkelling and exploring islands.

Getting around Koh Chang

You can also book vans for longer trips. We booked vans to transport us from Bangkok to Koh Chang and return. However, in spite of the heat… our choice as the main means of transportation for distances of a few kilometres was walking.

We experienced the sites and sounds of the surrounding jungle; and we saw enough scooter accidents on the narrow, windy, eroded roads to avoid that mode of transport here. While walking we were immersed in the sounds of tropical birds, frogs, insects (especially cicadas), and monkeys— as well as vehicle motors! Road kill victims were mainly large squashed frogs/toads, geckos, and 1 snake! There is much to experience here on hot and humid Koh Chang.

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Thailand—From Bangkok to Koh Chang

April 4th 2019

This morning I finally got to reunite with my son Alexander! He’s been working at Western Digital and living in Bangkok for over 5 years now. Our last visit was nearly a year ago in Canada. I miss him so much it pains my heart— I’m sure any mother would understand this emotion if their only child was half way across the globe! But I understand his draw to this lush, beautiful country and it’s amicable, caring citizens. When the van arrived at our hotel I didn’t want our embrace to end!

Reunion between mom & son in Bangkok

April is hot and humid in Thailand! Thai Travel websites list late April and May as the hottest months in most of Thailand… but apparently it’s also the dry season. What we’ve discovered so far, is that the humidity and heat combined will take some adjustment for our N. American bodies.

An unexpected surprise is there isn’t an over abundance of tourists at this time and it’s school break in Thailand, so we get to interact with Thai families. The young children are so cute!

Reunion & Bangkok road trip

We prebooked a transport company Taxi Koh Chang Asia in Koh Chang to pick up Alexander at his apartment then us at our Bangkok AT Suvarnabhumi Residence airport hotel in a private air conditioned van then drive us all the way to our next residence Tranquility Bay on the island of Koh Chang in the province of Trat.

Koh Chang is the 2nd largest island in Thailand on the Eastern coast with a population of about 6,000. We were staying at Bang Bao near the south of the island.

Bangkok to Trat Road Trip

The trip in the van was very interesting and comfortable . Our driver chose to avoid some of the traffic by taking an inner highway route instead of the coastal road.

Once we arrived at the Trat ferry terminal another man from the taxi company collected the 5,000 Baht cash fee for the van service door to door from Bangkok locations to our next residence at Koh Chang. Thank goodness for air conditioning! Most of the staff working at the ferry terminal wore hats, sunglasses, neck guards, long sleeved shirts, and either long pants or long skirts (females).

Ferry from Trat to Koh Chang

The ferry ride was a 45 minute crossing and quite pleasant. The scenery was lovely and you could sit or stand to observe the views. There was even a small snack shop on board the vessel. When we arrived at Tranquility Bay resort we unpacked then explored…

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Our Trip from Nanaimo to Bangkok via Hong Kong. April 2019

photos.app.goo.gl/WzrVRx2T3sk6n2TZA

April 2nd to April 4th, 2019

I’m trying something new on my blog. It’s a link to a photo video about our travels. Please press the link and open it.

We departed from Nanaimo on Vancouver Island at 7:55 am April 2nd to YVR (Vancouver, BC) via Harbour Air float plane. Although noisy… it’s such a lovely way to see the natural beauty and clean air of our country.

At 1:10 pm AC 007 departed for Hong Kong. We used aeromile points to upgrade to Premium Economy and it was sure worth it! We sure appreciated the extra legroom, service, and having only 2 seats per side. All announcements were presented in English, French, Mandarin and another language (Cantonese?).

We lost April 3rd as we passed over the International date line. (See you when we return lol). At 02:30 am PDT we arrived in Hong Kong–4:30 pm their time.

The air pollution was very high as we approached Hong Kong and visibility was limited as we landed. However… it was possible to see an extremely long bridge, lots of wind turbines protruding out of the ocean, and more freighters than I had previously seen in any one harbour! When we entered the terminal face masks were a common site.

We only had a 1 1/2 hour wait in Hong Kong but we wished we had planned a stop over to explore this thriving hub! TG 639 (Thai airlines) departed at 4:05 am PDT and arrived in Bangkok 6:45 am PDT which was actually 8:45 pm Thai time!

Our next leg of travel was relatively quick with Thai airlines from Hong Kong to Bangkok. I was appreciative of the preordered Gluten/Lactose free meals I received on all flights. They were pretty tasty too!

After arriving in Bangkok we received our visas and passed through security pretty quickly. It had been a much slower process in Hong Kong where my hand baggage was checked thoroughly. When we unpacked our checked suitcases at our Bangkok hotel I discovered a form letter inside my suitcase informing me that my suitcase had been hand checked in YVR but nothing was removed. That’s the first time I’ve had that experience! It was rather unsettling…

We had a lovely (although very lengthy) trip half way across the globe and had arrived safely in hot, humid, busy Bangkok. Tomorrow morning we would see my son who has lived/worked in Bangkok for over 5 years. I was exhausted, but so excited!

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Friends, Fun, and Majestic Beauty — Home on Vancouver Island!

Late March 2019

My home town is Port Hardy, B.C. On northern Vancouver Island. The rugged beauty of the pristine waters and outdoors is hard to match —particularly on sunny days.

Sea lions at Hardy bay

The community looks after each other —especially during any crisis. When I enter the Post Office, Guidos, Save On, or the hockey arena there are always friends to chat with and stories to share. This trip was no exception. I walked with Jackie and met her cute new little baby “Jozi”. We also were invited to lunch at Lata’s lovely new home in Hyde Creek. Many friends are living there now and their views truly are spectacular! No whales passing by this trip though. 🥴

Northern Vancouver Island

Port Hardy was hosting the provincial Bantams ice hockey championships. The game we watched ended in a tie between Port Hardy and Dawson Creek. Congratulations to our locals as Hardy Bantams ended up as silver medalists!

The 4 hour drive heading south to Nanaimo was gorgeous! Sun, snow on the mountain tops, no snow on the roads, ocean waves lapping the shores from Campbell River south, flowers blooming, trees in blossom. While most of Canada is still deep into winter, Vancouver Island is definitely full into Spring!

Port McNeill to Campbell River.

Back at our home in Nanaimo the blossoms and flowers were even further developed. We went for a walk at one of our favorite places —Pipers lagoon. It did not disappoint. Wow! From up top of the hill and cliff edge we were fortunate to observe harbour seals frolicking, sea lions slapping their fins and barking, and a rare sight … a pod of 5 orcas passed by! Then the full moon appeared in its splendour and glory. What an amazing world we live in!

Pipers Lagoon Nanaimo

During our final days before departing on our next big adventure, we traveled to Comox and Cowichan for business and pleasure. It’s always fun visiting Rick and Angelika. Home is pretty amazing, but Asia calls next!

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Patti’s Surprise 86th Birthday—St. Patrick’s Day

March 17th, 2019

St. Patrick’s Day symbolizes Irish traditions and wearing green to most of our western population. To me… It also represents mom’s birthday! I’ve always found it quite astonishing that mom was born on St. Patrick’s Day (thus her name selection), her brother was born on Halloween, and her dad on St.Valentine’s Day.

Mom was thrilled to have my brother Mark, and I (and my husband Mark) all visiting on her birthday. We kept her celebration quite small this year, but she was surprised when many of her closest friends dropped by.

Smiles, stories, and awesome food were shared. Happy birthday mom! We love you!

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The Inside Passage–Prince Rupert to Port Hardy Aboard the Northern Expedition!

Departure 4:45 p.m. March 15th– Arrival 3:00 p.m. March 16th 2019

We booked this 22 hour ferry trip from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy months ago! It’s not cheap, but it is certainly much more relaxing than driving over 1,085 km from Burns Lake to Vancouver in winter conditions then taking the ferry across to Vancouver Island. Mid March is mid season and the ferry only sails once a week stopping at both Klemtu and Bella Bella.

We were so thankful we reserved a cabin as the trip was lengthy and people were scrambling to get on a waiting list to receive a cabin. The price we paid for mid season rate was: $291.10 for under height vehicle; $252.00 for 2 adults; and $110.00 for a 2 berth outside cabin. The total fee for the ferry ride in mid March 2019 was $653.10.

All the cabins were booked and people without a cabin ended up sleeping in chairs or on the floors around the ferry. During the trip there were 3 movies offered in the Raven Lounge. The Gift store and the Cafe were open until 10:30 p.m. and re-opened early in the morning. Highlights of the trip were: the gorgeous scenery travelling between the mainland and outer islands most of the journey; and definitely seeing seals, sea lions, and Dall’s porpoises. A challenge was the rough ocean conditions we encountered during the night at Milbanke Sound between Klemtu and Bella Bella. The vessel was rocking so much it woke me up!

Overall, it was a wonderful experience and we would both travel this way again. Plus…When the ferry docks at Port Hardy, and the hatch opens so we can disembark, mom is only 10 minutes away! Back in God’s Country….Vancouver Island!

My brother, Mark, was down from Prince George visiting mom too, so after picking up some groceries at Save-On and checking out sea lions across Hardy Bay,  we had a lovely family reunion together. We even let mom open her new Samsung Galaxy tablet and cases a day early! The next blog post will be about St. Patrick’s Day (Mom’s 86th Birthday!).

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Terrace, Prince Rupert–Coastal Fog and Mist once again!

March 14th-15th 2019

Departing from the snow capped mountains, deep valley gorges, blue skies, frozen lakes, and ground covered snow of Hazelton and the Kitimat-Stikine area we headed mainly west 288 km towards our next destination–the coastline of B.C. at Prince Rupert.  The estimated time was 3 1/2 hours if you drove non-stop. But, we like to explore and as you may have interpreted…I love taking photos of our journeys and experiences. 🙂

Loaded logging trucks, increasing numbers of coniferous trees, and roadside rock walls covered in fingerlings of frozen waterfall icicles reminded me of home on northern Vancouver Island.

Passing through Terrace the evidence of industry and train transport was clear. I loved discovering the painted Kermode Spirit bear sculptures located around Terrace. In 2006, 23 colorful Kermode Spirit Bear sculptures went on auction to raise money for B.C. children’s programs–including B.C. Lions’ Easter Seal camps. I wonder how many ended up in Terrace? After a quick snack, we were back driving west on highway 16.

Snow on the surrounding hills/mountains continued to diminish; frozen lakes and rivers continued to melt and expose more free running water; and low clouds, mist, and even rain started becoming more frequent on the windshield. Yes. We were returning to the coast!

The Skeena river meandered to the left side of the highway after Hazelton becoming wider and more bold as we neared Prince Rupert. By some shallow sections of the river about an hour before we arrived at PR, we noticed cars parked and people taking photos in the river. Always curious, we wondered what the attraction was. It turns out, sea lions had made their way up the Skeen, quite a distance from the ocean entrance!

Mark got more and more animated as the snow dissolved and wet coastal conditions established themselves.

After unloading our belongings at a satisfactory Airbnb location, Mark and I went for a lengthy walk to stretch by exploring the lovely Rushbrook Trail. Much of this trail was created along an unused railroad track on the edge of the ocean.

Prior to exploring Historic Cow Bay area…I finally saw a Moose!!!

Prince Rupert is an island (Kaien Island) off the west coast of B.C. and is a busy terminus for the ferry, highway,  and railway. Many freighters await loading and unloading bulk products like grain and containers at the Docks. The residential areas are quite hilly, but there are many different quaint sections of this community to explore..

The Sunken gardens weren’t too impressive in the winter, but I am sure they would be lovely in the spring and summer. I really loved the Cow Bay Area. The first few previous photos were taken there.

A friendly local man told us to check out the “Fresh Onion Cafe” on 2nd Ave. West. It was packed and was definitely very popular with the locals. Tomorrow we sail south to Port Hardy on the Northern Expedition ferry!

 

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Historic Hazelton — Learning to Carve Totems at ‘Ksan

Mid March 2019

Ever wondered how FN coastal totem poles are designed and carved? I have seen so many in my hometown on northern Vancouver Island, but until now I have never had the opportunity to use the tools and carve! Today we traveled an hour north of Smithers to Hazelton, Gitanmaax and ‘Ksan Historical Village.

We continued to experience clear road conditions, blue skies, and temperatures between -10 and 4 degrees as we traveled north.  Landscapes consisted of a variety of snow capped mountain peaks, snowy fields, fairly thin evergreens or bare deciduous trees, and frozen lakes. The rivers were starting to break free and water was starting to escape through the centers of the frozen surfaces. meandering paths of footprints in the snow made me wonder about their source. What types of animals frequented these areas? Single car width metal bridges spanned the deep gorge at Hagwilget.

We departed from the main highway at New Hazelton exploring back roads and discovered a gem! ‘Ksan Historical Village was a beautiful community of First Nations big houses and totem poles in a setting beside a frozen river surrounded by snow capped mountains. Mark and I were excited to explore this historic village. Although this was definitely ‘off season’ we were able to walk around the grounds reading all the signs and appreciating the beauty of the totem poles, Big Houses, and natural setting. We discovered one door was propped open and when we peeked at the entrance a person’s voice welcomed us to come inside.

Dan Yunkws taught us a great deal about his culture and the vast amount of time, energy, thought, planning, and pride that is involved in creating totem poles. We were able to view, and even assist in carving, several of the poles which will be raised and placed at the new PetroCanada gas station near the ‘Ksan village. Dan shared his knowledge about designing a totem, symbolism of the clans, politics of working as a team, history of the area, and how tools were used. Dan even taught Mark and I how to use 2 different tools to slowly and carefully chip off small pieces of wood. It is a time consuming, repetitive procedure which takes skill to produce clean smooth surfaces. No wonder he does the faces last! What a fascinating, memorable experience.

Thanks Dan. Check out his fb page. Daniel L Yunkws. I strongly encourage people interested in learning more about First Nations culture to visit the ‘Ksan Historical Village near Hazelton. Perhaps you will even get a chance to meet Dan and try working on a totem pole!

Only a few minutes away is the Historic Old town of Hazelton. This is another really interesting town to check out from the historic paddle-wheeler and wagon on the roof, to the modern Mercedes Beans coffee and gift shop.

Then we were off once again, heading west to the coast and ocean via Terrace to Prince Rupert.

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Smithers, B.C. Mark meets a Moose! Gorgeous Skiing at Hudson Bay Mt.

March 12th and 13th, 2019

The Jetta was loaded with summer tires, bins filled with teacher resources, and my belongings from over 6 months of residing in Burns Lake, B.C. One last, lengthy cuddle with Brat and a wave goodbye to the never ending freight trains passing beside the highway then we departed northwest on our next journey. The highway was clear, the weather sunny, and the snow pile levels had significantly receded in the past week or so. What a perfect day for traveling past Fort Telkwa through Bulkley-Nechako to Smithers, B.C.

In addition to my teaching, I have occupied my time up north trying new types of outdoor recreation and experiencing true “Canadian” winter conditions. I am grateful for all the amazing new friends and experiences here, but I had my fingers crossed to see a moose and a lynx while up here. Unfortunately, that was not in the cards this trip.

However… Apparently, Lynx and Moose were around! I just needed to be at the right place at the right time. On a local fb group these lovely photos were shared of Lynx in the Southside while I was in the area.

And… regarding the moose…After we arrived at the Prestige Hudson Bay Lodge (Ski and Stay packages available here) I wanted to watch the final episode of “The Bachelor”. Who would Colton Underwood choose to marry? Needless to say…Mark preferred to go for a nice long walk in the marshland trails near our hotel.  Well…The result of the final Bachelor show was very disappointing as nobody got a rose and it was just endless drama. Meanwhile, Mark arrived back with a Cheshire cat grin and some amazing photos to accompany his story. He encountered a Moose eating new sprouts right near the trail in the marshland!!! Darn! I clearly made the wrong choice about activities tonight! 🙁 We returned there the next evening at the same time but weren’t successful in sighting another Moose.

The following morning we boarded the free shuttle bus from town and headed up Hudson Bay Mountain for a day of powder or groomed trails, breathtaking views, and lengthy runs from the chairlift or 2 T bars to the lodge. The top elevation is 5,413 ft or 1,650m. The rentals worked effectively and I was so happy to see that after being so wobbly on X Country skis, I had maintained my downhill confidence.

We had a wonderful day at Hudson Bay Mt. in the alpine influenced town of Smithers.

Tomorrow we continue north west through the Kitimat-Stikine area to New Hazelton, Gitanmaax and ‘Ksan Historical Village.