As we boarded the bus to depart from Phnom Penh we had no idea this would be another eye opening, life changing day in Cambodia! Heading to our next destination, Battambang, we would travel northwest for 295 km which should take about 5 hours and 40 mins. However, in addition to stopping for coffee and baked goodies; and visiting a location where mentally challenged people craft items from recycled silver; we were stopping to tour and visit an authentic floating village of about 300+ families at Kampong Luong.
As usual, our packed day would not end there…Once arriving in Battambang we would take a bamboo train to watch the sunset, then tour the downtown area prior to a late dinner! Here is a glimpse of our day.
Our tour guide (and most members of our tour group), adore coffee in the morning so our first stop was Tous les Jours authentic Bakery and Coffee shop. Due to my gluten intolerance, these bakery visits are difficult for me as I usually can not eat anything on the menu. Oh well…I gain less weight this way!
The modes of transport in Cambodia have their own unique flair. There are many motorcycles and tuktuks in Cambodia, but unlike Vietnam, honking is less common. Many motorcycles pull long carts (remork-moto). Foreigners can rent motorcycles here but do your research prior to choosing this option. There is extensive infrastructure upgrades occurring, and dirt roads and huge potholes are still common in areas.
Sareth was entertaining during the bus drive teaching us about multiple different ways to wear the famous Khmer scarfs. He was so convincing with the multiple uses for the scarf for males and females that many of us purchased scarfs prior to departing from Cambodia.
Roadside housing varied from elaborate (often with French influence), to homes on stilts, or simple shacks. Overhead electrical wiring looks very similar to what we witnessed in Thailand. During our trip to the floating village, it was quite common to see skinny cows munching on sparse blades of grass along the sides of the road/highway.
This is a pictorial representation of our journey from Phnom Penh to the floating village.
As we drove down the long dirt road towards the floating village of Kampong Luong 54, Krakor, Cambodia we were greeted by the site of garbage and remnants of previous homes. As the water levels subside on this lake (Tonle Sap), the homes must be moved. We weren’t informed how often this occurs or how far the homes must be relocated. Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia.
“The floating village of Kompong Luong offers the opportunity to visitors to discover the everyday life of Cambodian families on the Tonle Sap lake. The families live in floating houses with a constant movement of boats that brings people and goods to the village. The village consist of both Cambodian community and Vietnamese community both living in the same floating village.” For a home stay experience at this floating village check out this article written by Chris Green. https://impactexplorer.asia/kompong-luong/
As we neared the lake there were a few tiny homes situated on the land adjacent to the area where dozens of long boats were located. Emaciated cattle, dogs, and water buffalo wandered along the banks searching for sustenance. Several thin, agile Khmer boys gathered to assist the tourists in getting into the boats then free ropes for the driver. Perhaps the driver’s sons?
Later when we returned from the boat tour the same boys were collecting plastic and Styrofoam from the garbage heaps on the sides of this lake. As they ran to assist with the docking of the boat one little boy lost his flip-flops and cut his foot just prior to jumping into the murky greenish/brown lake water. They must be incredibly resilient children as the water was polluted and unsanitary. The little boys were friendly, helpful, athletic, welcoming, and had the most beautiful smiles.
Our tour group was informed there were over 300 families living in the floating village. Additional research indicates this number could be substantially low! Citizens from both Cambodia and Vietnam live together in this floating community. Interesting enough, although the village is located in Cambodia it is apparently considered a Vietnamese settlement?
We didn’t see any life jackets (except hanging in our tour boat!) and children seemed very confident independently maneuvering their vessels.
The lake water was used for bathing, swimming, washing, fishing, transporting boats and loads, and the outhouses were located directly above the water!
This experience was another eye-opener for us. There was so much to observe and learn about this unique way of life. I have created 2 videos about our time at the floating village. This is Part One from our arrival until we reached the floating school in the village. (Note the boats docked in front of the school which the children quite capably navigate through the waters.).
According to our guide, students who get to attend schools in primary grades usually attend from 8:30–11:30 for the first 4 years of their education.
As we toured through Kampong Luong we passed the school, fueling station, phone stores, health center, convenience stores, ice shop, church, temple, police station, 2-3 home stays run by the village, fishing supply store, machine shop, and many other small businesses. The recreation building was located near the outer edge of the village. Entrepreneurs even rowed around the village with wares or vegetables in their heavily laden boats.
Children waved and adults seemed neutral or tolerant regarding the invasion of tourists exploring their community. The pace was slow and peaceful –except for the occasional loud engines as the longboats passed by.
No drive throughs. No junk food. No obesity. No eating unnecessarily. Food here is for sustenance and survival requires an active lifestyle. Turquoise, green and white are popular colors used on many of the homes and businesses here. Here is the second half of our trip through this unique floating village.
It would be fascinating to experience a home stay in Kampong Luong … but due to my current digestive unrest in Cambodia, I am sure I couldn’t survive the poor sanitation conditions!
However…. I would have loved to teach these delightful children!
Back on the bus… searching for emergency bathrooms! Then onward to Battambang–the second most populated city in Cambodia.
After unloading our belongings at the “Classy Hotel” we headed out on tuktuks to drive 4km to the train station, O-Dambong, where we would all board bamboo trains to ride through the country and observe a sunset Cambodian style.
The bamboo trains were very simplistic. The train is known as a norry, a 3m sq. metal and wood frame, covered with strips of bamboo. The “bamboo” section of the train was the floor boards which were covered in a reed mat upon which we sat. 10 from our group plus Sareth were divided into 2 “trains”.
Each “train” had a driver at the rear. There was no safety gear on this excursion. We sat bundled together on the mat and zoomed down the railway tracks. The rural landscape was lush and the ride was fun.
We had 2 brief stops en route to the bridge (sunset observation point). One stop occurred when a herd of cattle was led over the tracks to new grazing areas. The second occurred when a family was coming the opposite direction down the track! They stopped, got off their ‘train’ and lifted their base and wheels off the track until we passed then re positioned them on the track.
The only casualty occurred when a large hornet flew into my knuckle resulting in a substantial sting, swelling and welt. Apparently I “took one for the team!” However, I wasn’t thrilled about getting another sting as I previously was stung by a wasp at Halong Bay while kayaking! Thanks to Julie and Mac who shared their antihistamine cream to reduce the swelling each time. 😬
Presenting our sunset adventure on the Bamboo train.
While anticipating the sunset at the bridge area we heard croaking followed by a quick splash. A local man was sifting through the reeds capturing frogs and passing them to (possibly family) members waiting up the bank. Dinner?
After a beautiful return trip aboard our bamboo train admiring the romantic beauty inspired by the setting sun’s hues and impact on the scenery, we boarded our Tuktuks. It was time to return to our hotel after another late evening dinner and photo shoot at the enormous Ta Dumbong (Powerful Black Man) statue in central Battambang.
It was another packed day with Intrepid tours! Tomorrow we tour rural Battambang via bicycles then travel 3-4 hours to our next destination–Siem Reap.
Note: I would like to acknowledge that some of the photos/videos in this blog post were taken by my husband, Mark, or shared by members of our Intrepid tour group.